Apartment hunt

So after two months of searching and many sympathies shared to us by Israelis also frustrated by the apartment hunting process, we are glad to announce that we have signed a lease on a new apartment. It's a reasonably priced three bedroom, two bath recently constructed apartment. The two greatest things about this apartment are: 1) we get to stay in the Neve Tzedek neighborhood which we love and Jana and Atom are considered "locals" by the community and especially by the retail shops. 2) the rent is almost 20% lower than what we are currently paying and almost half the price of what the landlord has our current apartment listed for (more on that in a bit).

 In this apartment hunting process, we learned a few things about the Tel Aviv housing market:

1. Overall rent prices are disproportionately high compared to the average salary of Israelis. The recent tent protests which originated as a protest on the high price of rent are indeed valid, especially given the skyrocketing rates seen the past few years. 
2. Many landlords' expectations and resulting asking price are completely unrealistic. We saw apartments that were shit-holes with high asking prices, and we saw nice renovated apartments with exorbitant asking prices. Most of those remain on the market even after many months of vacancy. I mean why would someone rent these places when there are also reasonably priced places on the market like the one we found? 
3. As much as we tried not to use a real estate agent to avoid the 1 month fee, it was almost impossible for the apartments in our neighborhood. Even when we were able to contact the landlord directly, they directed us back to their real estate agent. Why do I have to pay a finder's fee when I did all the work?
4. Google translate and google chrome's automatic translation function are awesome. 
5. I hate my current landlord and am so glad we are moving out. 

One last parting shot at my current landlord: how can you ask for 16000 nis ($4300) a month when there is mold growing all under the floor and the moisture continues to cause the dry wall to bubble and crack?

The 443

A few weeks back, I decided to get a early start home after a busy day at work.  I got on the highway and took my normal route from Jerusalem back to Tel Aviv.  Oh what a bad decision.  Two minutes into the drive home, I ran into a traffic jam, a traffic jam that lasted 3 hours long.

Rather than take the more popular Highway 1 route between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, I take The 443.  The 443 is generally 15-30 minutes faster than Route 1, and when there is traffic on Route 1, which there generally is, the time savings can stretch into hours.  The main caveat though is the fact that the 443 cuts straight through the West Bank into occupied territory. 

The route itself is beautiful.  Palestinian villages, perched on hilltops, line the scenery with their minarets quite prominent.  Near the roadside though, the scenery is not so nice.  As this is a route used by Palestinians and Israelis, it is "secured."  Between the road and villages in the distance is a mix of high walls and barb wire fences.  And at the start and end of the route are military checkpoints.  And it was at this military checkpoint which is right after the junction to Ramallah in which I was stuck in the 3 hour traffic jam. 

Below are some photos of The 443 that I took "while driving."


View Larger Map

Military checkpoint entrance

IDF soldiers man the checkpoints w/ M16s prominantly displayed

Hard to see but a Palestinian village off in the distance.

Ramallah junction

Public Radio International Debut

Hey everyone, Scott made Public Radio International!  We are so excited and proud of him! Here is a little excerpt to get you started.   

"...There is an old joke here in Israel, when Moses was leading the Israelites out of Egypt to the promised land, he took a wrong turn.  Instead of ending up in  oil rich Saudi Arabia,  he ended up in the land of milk and honey, but no oil.  These days, there’s a new twist to the story…"  ~Daniel Estrin

Scott:  "Maybe he didn’t turn the wrong way, its just that he needed a little bit of time."  

Next up, Jean-Patrick Grumberg.   

Check out the URL and click on Play Audio to hear his interview. You will also see a slide show of Scott and other colleagues at the drill site located towards the bottom of the page.  

Audio File:  
http://media.blubrry.com/world/p/www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect.mp3/media.theworld.org/audio/092620116.mp3

Article:
http://www.theworld.org/2011/09/slideshow-israels-oil-dreams-kick-off-environmental-battle/

Beach day with Sophie and Makai

I just discovered this unpublished post written 2 months ago.   

Sometime in July, the day Aulii, Tom, and Isla went to Jerusalem I had the opportunity to stay in air conditioning, hang out at the beach, eat pizza, all while watching Sophie and Makai. I am proud to say not one tantrum was thrown by the two kids!  A tiny bit of whining by Big Mak but that's expected when he tries to communicate.

The morning started off like every morning. Makai and Sophie watched "George" and " Max", Sophie danced and sang "I do not like green eggs and ham" while Makai tries to copy her.  By 915 we were out the door and heading to the beach!

Makai, cover my feet in sand like this...

Ok, i guess i will do it.

Makai wanting to walk home.

After beach drink.  Ice cold apple juice.

Apartments and Protests

We are in the market for a new apartment.  Even though the place is beautiful and a great size for us, the number of issues have simply been mounting.  And it only has been recently that a final decision had been made to move, and actually the decision was pretty much made by our landlord. 

A few months ago, the landlord and I verbally agreed to continue the lease at the same monthly rent because of all the issues we've experienced the past year rather than raise it 10% as originally specified in the contract.  Jana and I simply wanted to avoid the hassle of moving.   I should have gotten it in writing then.  Right before our trip to Turkey, she came with a real estate agent to appraise the place for selling (She did tell me this and we agreed there would be plenty of advanced notice if this was actually happening.)  The agent told her that selling at a high price might take awhile but she could get lots more rent.  So the next day, we received the call from our landlord that the previous agreement was off the table and that she'll be putting the place on the rental market.  We have since found out that she is asking for 45% more than what we are currently paying.

So we are looking for a new apartment and have till the end of September.  At least now, we can go look for a newly renovated place and avoid all the issues we've had to deal with.  Wish us luck.

Coincidentally, there is a country wide ongoing demonstration protesting the high cost of living here in Israel.  It turns out that the cost of living here in Tel Aviv is similar to New York City, but the average Israeli makes about half that of the average American.  The protesters, lead by mostly 20 and 30 year old's protesting the skyrocketing rent, have set up tents on one of Tel Aviv's most beautiful streets Rotchild.  They have been there for weeks, and last Saturday a huge demonstration with more than 200,000 people took place.  I was partly observer, partly protester.

What will come of the protests is uncertain.   The government is full of beauracratic red-tape, and since no spokesman/leader has emerged from the protesters, their message and demands are lofty and unfocused. 

Here are some photos I took of the protests last Saturday night. 

Weekend trip to Istanbul

To break up the monotony of Jewish history during the Limtiacos' visit, we made a quick weekend jaunt to Istanbul.  Told by my Israeli friends to make no mention of Israel while there, I decided the direct flight from Tel Aviv Airport to Istanbul's Ataturk airport was a little too hard to cover up.

Istanbul is a dynamic city, and I've been told many things have changed since my last visit there 11 years ago.  We stayed in the Cihanger neighborhood on the European side and were awoken at 4 AM by the call to prayer coming from the mineret just 20 feet from our window.  The Cihanger neighborhood itself was filled with character.  Narrow streets, sidewalk cafes, and streets full of "antique" shops.  My favorite meal during the trip was in a small meatball cafe in the neighborhood.  And the only reason it was my favorite was my introduction to Turkish cheese rolls.  I would go back just for them.

Anyways, we made the standard stops in the Sultanhamet on the first day, visiting the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia.  Atom decided he didn't like wearing shoes.  Fortunate enough, all the mosques have a wash area where Jana would periodically clean his feet.  Atom also made two Turkish girlfriends.  It turns out the "adorable" look is pretty universal.  The two girls gave him a postcard and their email addresses.  (Like all men, he has since thrown away the email addresses.)

The second day was a ferry ride up the Bosphorous, joined by Tom and Aulii's Turkish friend Nihan.  It was well planned, allowing us to avoid the searing heat for most of the day.  The ferry ride made a stop on the Asian side of Istanbul, and from there we decided to hike up a steep hill to an old castle even though it was pretty hot.  While I planked and Tom owled, the other tourists wondered why they had just hiked up the hill to find the castle closed for excavations.

One side note: I saw one man walking up the hill with about 10 women who were all covered up in headscarves and long coats.  Not sure if I would really call that man "lucky."

The final half day was spent strolling through the neighborhood looking for souvenirs and Turkish cookbooks.  We headed to the airport, and lo and behold, there was a Popeye's, and it had really good fried chicken.  The trip was short, but it ended perfectly.

Inside the Blue Mosque courtyard. 

Isla with her Auntie Jana

Sophie and Atom sharing a lollipop

Tom Owling

Me Planking

Strolling in the Cihanger neighbohood
The pink hat is a hot commodity

Atom's Turkish girlfriends

Atom didn't know what hit him.

Auntie Fran, look at your little granddaughter's head. 

The Limtiacos: Israel

The Limtiacos came for a two week visit recently.  Toting along with Tommy and Aulii were their two little girls Sophie and Isla.  Sophie and Atom became fast buddies as they bonded over movies on the iPad.  She also introduced him to the lollipop.  It is now the best tool to bribe him with.  Isla is adorable and so easy to take care of, she can often be forgotten about.  (This happened many times during the trip.)

Though their trip was not as packed as the twin's visit a few months ago, they did get to see quite a few places.  It would have been more if not for the extreme heat. Summer is not the best time to tour Israel.  Here's a short recap of their trip in Israel.

• Day 1: Arrive in Israel.  Welcomed with some tasty steaks not cooked medium well.
• Day 2: Toured Neve Tzedek neighborhood.  That's the historical neighborhood we live in.
• Day 3: Caesarea.  Sophie didn't care about the ruins, only about the popsicle they sold in the park shop.   Atom didn't care for his car seat, so he threw up on Jana.
• Day 4: Nazarath.  Visited Church of the Annunciation.  Jana was asked if she was "normal" for trying to bring in Pali to the church
• Day 5: Rosh Pina and Sea of Galilee.  Effort to follow Jesus's footsteps in 100 degree heat failed.  The hotel pool was the preferred option.
• Day 6: Akko.  Somehow Pali was allowed to tour the Crusader's citadel. 
• Day 7: Tel Aviv. Carmel Market.  Aulii paid 11 shekels for bananas when Jana said to not pay more than 10.
• Day 8: Jerusalem Old City.  Aulii and Tom toured the old City and Isla had her first solid food: hummus!
• Day 9-12: Istanbul 
• Day 13: Recuperated in Tel Aviv
• Day 14: Flight back to the US.  Ask Tom and Aulii about their flight experience.

Church of Annunciation, Nazarath

Villa Tehilla, Rosh Pina

Cousins watching Max and Ruby, Rosh Pina

Crusader's Citadel, Akko

Smuggling tunnel in Gaza

Look what can be smuggled through the tunnels, Isla!

Gahn Sari

I may have caused some confusion in my last post.  Yes, Makai will be going to school but NOT to the gahn operated by Arabs in Jaffa.

He will be attending Sari starting September 1st.  We've been going almost everyday to get him acquainted with the teachers and some students.   8 of the kids currently enrolled will be returning.  The other 12 will be heading off to 1st grade.  They start grade 1 here at the age of 4.  Unfortunately the "bully" of the group will be returning.  He threw sand at Makai's face and got into some trouble for it.  Surprisingly Makai didn't cry.  He was a M.A.N.,  brushed it off his clothes and face, walked away and played with some girls.  I guess my year of saying "if someone is mean to you, you don't have to play if you don't want too" has been engrained in his brain.

Here are some shots of him in action at his gahn. 

Slide!

Driving

With Dror, also a new kid.

Open play.  Arts, reading, puzzles, or dress up.  He chose arts.

We decided to give this a few months and see how it goes.  The school is from 8 to 4.  I will be taking him whenever he wakes up (today was 10 a.m.) til around 1 p.m.   If we aren't happy with Sari then it will be back to the LG/Nguyen Academy where he'll learn...

The history of Arabs, taught by dad.

The art of fine dining in your pram,
taught by mom.

How to "streak" through the streets of Tel Aviv,
allowed by mom.

Gahn

Gahn is hebrew for kindergarten. Here kids start no later than the age of 2. Makai has been on the Montessori waitlist since Janurary and still no luck of getting in. It did look promising when we went to the states. They did say we think we have room with people leaving but when we returned we heard it was a no go.

For the past 6 months I've been looking around. Not actively checking out all the gahns but just the ones which come highly recommended. I have not been impressed. My standards are Americanized and we live in the middle east. Not a good mix.

A few people have recommended schools in Jaffa, an arab town here. I decided to check it out. This is the first Arab gahn I visited and don't think I'll be checking out any others, for obvious reasons.

Yes Big Mak, that's trash in their yard!

More trash...

Chickens eating left over watermelon and junk.  Horders?

We did find a school right next to where we live.  It's pretty nice and Makai feels comfortable.  He always asks to go and when we get there and its one of the few places he is willing to get out and venture on his own.

Last week we stopped by with Pali to put a deposit down.  Makai was quite excited.  When we got there he wanted me to join him with the group of kids by taking my hand.  I said no, you have to do this on your own.  I will stay here and watch.  He then grabbed Pali's leash trying to get her to join the group of kids with him.  She refused.  The kids had balloons.  Pali is afraid of balloons.

Cheeesssee!

We've been back in Israel for about 2 1/2 weeks and Big Mak is full of surprises.  Not only can he say about 30 words now but he has given up ice cream and moved onto cheese.  Unfortunately this isn't your run of the mill cheese shop, its a pricey french deli.  And by pricey I spent $42 usd on cheese the other day.   Big Mak is loving smelly, moldy, expensive cheese.  You know the kind which you hold your nose to eat.  He stands at the deli, points to the different cheese which he would like to try.  I try a slice and think OMG that is pretty nasty and hand it over.  He asks for more, then more, then more til I decide to buy a little bit.  We get home and I hand him some of his smelly goat cheese, some crackers, and salami.

I have never shown him how to eat cheese and crackers but the little man ate it like he's been eating it his whole life. I was shocked.  I stood back doing dishes and watched him gently lay the cheese on the cracker and add a slice of salami or a piece of fruit.  I tried to take a photo but he refused.

When Scott came home from work he tried a piece.  He could barely bite into it.  He opened his mouth wanting something to spit into.  And Makai took another slice and savored the flavor.

Gaza

Million dollar homes in an territory where the median salary is $800 per year and can be razed or bombed at any moment.

Check out this Marketplace podcast on the real estate industry in Gaza. 

Two

Makai has become quite outgoing.  ALL the kids at the playground know him and start calling "Ot-kai", "Mikai" or "kai" as we come walking up in his pram.   He gives his buddies a big bear hug from behind, sometimes wrestling them to the ground.   You then hear a "Die, die!" ("enough" in hebrew).  Then they all start giggling hysterically as they are all rolling on the ground.



Some of their nannies try to get hugs and kisses from the little M.A.N. and he plays hard to get.  He looks at them, smiles and runs away.  One woman, Tanya, mentioned to me one morning Makai knows he is so cool.  Look at him.  I tried giving him a slice of chocolate in return for a hug and he wouldn't even try it.  Just said no.  Most kids would have devoured it and asked for more. 

He can say about 30 words now, with his favorite being "more poo poo".  He loves flying his kite, climbing a 20 foot ladder or anything he is allowed too, knocking on all of our neighbors doors as we walk down the street just to wave hi to them, running away from the waves and into the waves, and dancing. 

I've started to give him "chores" under supervision.  His chores consist of cleaning Sabbia's litter, picking up Pali's poop, picking up his toys (we are still working on), unloading groceries and putting them in the bottom bins, rinsing the dishes and putting them in the top rack,  helping dad lift (see video, especially the last 3 seconds), and if he makes a mess spilling his water or food he is responsible for clean up.  Of course to an extent.  Mostly if he intentionally makes a spill.

Volunteer Work

Last week Makai and I decided to go with some buddies to clean a neighborhood park.   The park is next to our friend and Makai's sitter's house, Maya.  She invited us one morning and I thought it was a good idea to introduce Makai to community service.

When I saw this park I thought "wow, we have to actually clean which means I have to set a good example and work as well.  What did I agree too?  I can't sit on my butt and watch him play like most days."  There was bird poop all over the picnic tables, cat poop in the sand, trash all over the ground.  I was pretty grossed out.  There was no backing out now since we were there.  I even thought to myself, hopefully he will get cranky and tired and we will have to leave in the next 15 minutes.  NOPE!  Big Mak had a good time and did alot of work!

He didn't really like getting his hands wet and dirty and scrubbing bird poop.  Which was fine with me.  I didn't volunteer for that part.  Makai watched Daniel spray the sponge and start wiping the bench.
  

Makai thinking...

Then Makai had a brilliant idea.  He sprays while Daniel scrubs!  The little dude is thinking like his mom!!!

Makai says you clean, I spray.

See Daniel, you wipe the wet area.

After spraying one bench Makai went to raking duty.  We raked all the leaves, trash and cat poop into a pile. He had fun raking and when he noticed Daniel slacking he handed him the extra rake as to say get busy.

Raking...

Phew.  That was some hard work!

Check out my pile mom! 
Now i can stomp in leaves!

 Luckily for me he climbed into his pram after an hour making the sleep sign and we headed home.

Jana's Experiences with Israeli Dogs

Jana has a love-hate relationship with Israel.  She like the urban beach lifestyle of our neighborhood in Tel Aviv, but every now and then she gets real irritated.  And since I work in an office all day, she's the one with most of the note worthy experiences.

And most of the irritating experiences have to do with Israeli dog owners who tend not to leash them and overall have quite a different relationship with their dogs than we do with Pali.  Here's a conversation between Jana and me from just a few minutes ago.

------

Jana: laura, the girl from LA who i met awhile ago when we first moved here is going to take us around next week and see a few gans as well

she said there are some which are extremely clean they are just in little nooks

 me:  i don't remember laura

ok

cool

 Sent at 2:27 PM on Wednesday

 Jana:  i rarely see her.  i got irritated this morning and she happened to be right near us and heard me

we were starting our walk and this guy had two dogs.  one leashed, the other not

the other was a doberman which was leashed and was trying to get pali.  fine he controlled the dog.

the other dog ran up to pali, smelt her, and then PISSED all over the stroller!

i yelled LOH (No)! and kicked the dog.

then i said ben zona Kelev (Son of a bitch Dog).

 me:  funny

 Jana:  he shrugged his shoulders like WTF

i said your f*** dog pissed on my son's leg and part of his toys.

male dog

so she was around and said hey, is that makai.  i said yes, she goes oh i heard you.  you can always tell the americans from the israelis

the americans always have nicely tamed and well mannered dogs.  they are also well groomed.  the israelis just let them do anything

so i vented to her.

 me:  wow

 Jana:  seriously dog piss

all bc pali was there

he was marking makai and the stroller

Easter in Israel

Easter occurs around the same time as the end of Passover.  Oma had sent over many Easter items including an Elmo easter basket, plastic eggs, and chocolate.  And so Jana wanted to organize an Easter Egg Hunt with Atom's playground buddies but wasn't having so much luck.  Go figure.  In a land full of Jews, Easter Egg Hunts probably don't generate as much excitement as bar mitzvahs. 

Undeterred, Jana decided to have an Easter egg hunt just for Atom, and she did this in the backyard of the Vinegars during the lunch they invited us to celebrating the end of Passover.  Not only did we celebrate the end of Passover with an Easter egg hunt, I decided to bring over to the Vinegars a 1 kg bag of shrimp.  They loved it.  And Atom loved the Easter egg hunt, especially the chocolate candy hidden inside the eggs. 

Side note: Harold doesn't keep kosher.  In fact, here's a quote during a Saturday morning breakfast in the neighborhood cafe.  Jana orders bacon, offers it to Harold, and he responds, "I love bacon, especially on the Sabbath."